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Suzy Menkes:巴黎时装周第五天(9)

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    Junya Watanabe: Honeycomb
    Sculpted mesh bobbing up and down – there could be only one word to express Junya Watanabe’s Autumn/Winter 2015 collection: origami. 
    
    Backstage though, the Japanese designer had a different word: “honeycomb”. The famously silent Junya came up with another phrase, saying he wanted to “explore dimensions”. And that summed up the show. 
    
    Each season Watanabe shifts between the conceptual and the actual when it comes to clothing. But these explorations in three dimensions were surprisingly wearable: fresh white blouses or wide-cut jackets and coats, worn with metallic studded trousers. 
    Since the first half of the show was all black, graffiti was drawn on necks and legs, right down to the brogue shoes. 
    
    Just when variations on a theme – different accordion-pleat hats or cut-out tunics – began to seem repetitive, more fabrics were introduced. They created effects of mesh or shine. 
    Then came colour, creeping in as a honey beige, followed by red, purple and pink combined with a russet honeycomb collar. 
    
    The idea of an elastic movement is a minor trend for next season, with Ferragamo in Italy showing knits that appear to quiver and flutter. So add Junya to this concertina story. 
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