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Suzy Menkes:巴黎时装周第五天(10)

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    Nina Ricci: A Man and a Woman  
    “There is no real fashion concept except what Nina Ricci means to me – it’s about fashion as a perfume,” said Guillaume Henry before showing his debut Nina Ricci collection. 
    The show opened with an elegant but familiar statement about a woman in a mannish double-breasted blazer, but feminine in her transparent lace skirt. 
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    And so went the contradictory story: sharp tailoring and slim dresses illuminated with sparkle; a city coat fancied up with oh-so-fashionable silken fringe. 
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    I felt that Guillaume Henry was thinking of a wardrobe for a woman of today. But to my surprise, she was an intercontinental figure, not the cute young French woman of his earlier designs for Carven. 
    Filling the shoes of Peter Copping, who left Nina Ricci for Oscar de la Renta earlier this year, did not seem a problem for the confident new designer. 
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    In fact, his simple court shoes set a tone for the collection, which was drawn on simple lines with surface decoration. 
    A wool dress with fluffy shearling patches on a slim cream shift seemed the right way to go, rather than the semi-transparent dresses, one showing underwear, which is such a cliché of femininity. 
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Much better was a sweater with cable knits, mixing white and cream.  That kind of sporty style was one of the elements that showed promise for the future. 
    But now that the new Nina Ricci collection has been presented, Henry needs to spray a stronger perfume to make his identity at the new house.
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