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Mugler: Ice and Heat It is a cliché of futurism – or maybe a geographic certainty – that the world out there is an icy, silver blue. The same colour is often adopted for cyberspace on screen. So it seems inevitable that Mugler, the brand founded by a designer whose symbol became a star in the firmament, should take on that vision.  Picture credit: Indigital To all of this, designer David Koma added a sexual surge that is not usually so evident with ‘cyber women’ – at least not on the surface. But it was with great skill that he sliced away a snippet at the hem of an already brief black dress, punched a pattern of holes to make miniscule windows on the body, and sliced surfaces into a fine mesh.  Picture credit: Indigital In his programme notes, the designer talked of “digital inspiration”, which is undoubtedly a modern influence. There seems to be a variety of brands competing for this ‘Frozen’ look, and it is to Koma’s credit that he gave it some heat. Everything was in place – silvered stilettos or ring collars, silver lines, gilded, bronze and metallic patterns. No metal was ignored, yet none were overplayed. Graphic geometry ruled.  Picture credit: Indigital My issue is that the various futurists from half a century ago are merging into one on the catwalk. Mugler, Paco Rabanne, Courrèges – they have all presented a vague idea of the space age and journeys to the moon. Thierry Mugler was all that, but with other, deeper channels of creation and invention. You cannot really expect a designer hired to make a powerful perfume business to pursue complex avenues of inspiration for the catwalk. And technically, Koma did the asymmetric-geometric thing very well.  Picture credit: Indigital But I couldn’t help thinking of Anthony Vaccarello, relatively new on the scene, whose rendition this season of stars as cut-outs revealing flesh would have been a perfect fit with Mugler’s back story. (责任编辑：admin) |