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Suzy Menkes:巴黎时装周第五天(14)

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    Elie Saab: A Functional Wardrobe 
    Fresh and growing greenery, and the trees of his native Lebanon lined the runway at Elie Saab’s January couture show.
    The reprise of nature here, but as flat wooden toy trees, spoke volumes about the emotion of the first show, and the business-like line-up for the second.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    And so it should be. Couture is to dream. Ready-to-wear is to sell. And Saab could not have made that clearer.
    The commercial version started with slim tops and trousers, dresses with short skirts and cut-away bosoms. It was almost office wear, if such a concept works for Saab’s classy and wealthy customers.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    These wine-red and olive-green outfits soon defaulted to black, with surface interest of autumnal leaves, ultimately followed by some bold digital prints of seascapes.
    There was nothing wrong with the collection – but it seemed like a show on autopilot, as the clothes segued from day through to the cocktail (think lace) and dinner hours.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    No sweeping gowns for the red carpet? They are the preserve of couture, where Saab prefers to show the full scope of his creativity.
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