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Suzy Menkes:米兰时装周第三天(17)

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    Marco de Vincenzo: Colour Blocked
    The rainbow-tinted lenses of the glasses at Marco de Vincenzo’s show suggested from the first outfit – in grey denim with a multi-coloured striped sweater – a desperation to be cool.
    That, and the deafening music that seemed inappropriate for a straightforward collection of sporty separates. As ever, simplicity was the winner: for example, vertical strokes of colour on a white top with a tan denim skirt.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Then came streamlining plus adornment: plain coats decorated with what looked like ice-cream cones or blobs of sorbet.
    I had thought that LVMH, via Fendi, had taken an investment in de Vincenzo’s company because of his exceptional skills of impressing embellishment to streamlined effect.
    But I did not find that in this collection, although inserts of checks at an angle across a black sweater were in tune with other geometric expressions from Winter 2015.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    But the designer did not seem to be speaking the language of fashion – just creating some striking clothes.
    My random picks from an unfocused show: a green, vertically striped devore dress (the look came in multi-coloured stripes too), dresses with a single line of Lurex colour trickling down the front, and those rainbow glasses.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    But to make an impact on the sales floor, more focus would be wise.
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