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New Shoots: Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini If all the hidden talents were brought up on stage, would there be a youth quake in Milan fashion? It is 40 years since new shoots appeared, thrived and grew into what are now household fashion names that are also mighty empires.  Picture credit: Indigital Continuing with the gardening metaphor, the overarching trees have cast a shadow over fertile ground, making it tough over the last decade for younger and newer arrivals to flourish.  Picture credit: Indigital I have always felt that the Aeffe Group, which is behind Alberta Ferretti, is interested in youth and willing to experiment with unexpected talents – supporting Jean Paul Gaultier in his day, and recently Jeremy Scott at Moschino.  Picture credit: Indigital So it was a pleasure to see Lorenzo Serafini step into the light as creative director of Philosophy. Ferretti, joint-founder of Aeffe with her brother, started Philosophy as a sidebar to her namesake brand, and Serafini respected that heritage. He built ruffles into blouse necks, feminised cable knitting by making a cape, worn over what looked like lingerie.  Picture credit: Indigital I caught a whiff of the Seventies in the Victoriana facing of a new version of the Saint Laurent luxe tuxedo. But Serafini’s skill was to pull all that together with something simple: a pair of well-cut white jeans.  Picture credit: Indigital Sometimes new designers – or shall we say ‘newly visible’ – try so hard to make a splash that they forget fashion’s purpose: to enhance. But whether in white, black or blocks of wine, mustard and ginger, the designer stayed on message: he wanted to dress women in the real world. (责任编辑：admin) |