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Suzy Menkes:米兰时装周第三天(10)

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    Emporio Armani: Crossing Colours
    Think of the Armani empire: it encompasses everything from the designer’s famous beige tailoring, through to clothing inspired by blue sea and sky, through to a sporty, city or vacation look.
    But not folklore or ethnic elements. Nor vivid red followed by purple and mauve.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    So the Emporio Armani show, with its Ikat work and textural effects, seemed like a departure for the designer. There were mohair dresses, split to the thigh for striding. Even pants came soft, gathered at the top, as if inspired by a faraway culture. Or there were bold appliqué patchwork flowers.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    “Crossing Colours” was the title Giorgio Armani gave to his collection. The focus on unusual shades included fur given a tinting and pattern treatment.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Was this an Emporio version of the Seventies hippie de luxe revival so prevalent in current fashion? Or was it a flourish of a statement, on the eve of the company’s 40th anniversary, that he is not ‘Monsieur Beige’?
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Whatever the origins of the show, there were some cute and simple pieces, like a black coat, gathered at the pocket hiplines and decorated with just a dash of folklore and colour: a red felt bow.
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