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Couture Korea: From Far East to West Coast

http://www.newdu.com 2017-12-28 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 参加讨论

    敬请期待中文版
    
    Ceremonial costumes for men, women and children at the "Couture Korea" exhibition at the Asian Art Museum in San Francisco. At the front are contemporary reconstructions of a woman's "Hanbok" and man's coat ("gu'ui") based on 17th-century garments; at the back are two reconstruction of a ceremonial "dolbok" for a boy’s and girls first birthdays, based on Joseon‐dynasty ensembles
    Arumjigi Culture Keepers Foundation © Asian Art Museum
    I was surprised and proud to see my name on the wall of an exhibition in San Francisco. When I saw that the words were about Korean designer Jin Teok, I recalled instantly the layers of thin, white fabric, like wispy clouds, that the celebrated designer had shown me in her Seoul boutique – and what she had told me about her reverence of, and reference to, her country’s past. I also vividly remembered the trail, as fine as thread, that she had traced through her family’s origins and native culture over the last half-century.
    
    The cotton "Strata" dress, from Jin Teok's "Earth" series, 2000
    © Arumjigi Culture Keepers Foundat
    “Jin Teok’s clothes are like a poem. They speak from her soul, sometimes as a whisper, occasionally with a shout, always with grace,” I wrote in 2015 when I was preparing for the second Condé Nast International Luxury Conference in South Korea.
    Until I saw the newly opened “Couture Korea” at the Asian Art Museum in San Francisco (until 4 February 2018) I had not realised the steadfast history – from the 13th to the 19th century – that had defined how the nation dressed. In Seoul, I was charmed by the sight of young women returning to the colourful Hanbok (mostly to take selfies, according to the curator, Hyonjeong Kim Han). But the Californian museum gave me an infinitely wider vision than my memories of K-Pop, G-Dragon, Gangnam Style and Seoul Fashion Week, where the shows seemed to fuse male and female clothing in a modern way.
    
    A silk dress and cotton denim and lace skirt by Jin Teok (b. 1934) from her 1995 "Blood" collection. The ensemble was inspired by a traditi
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