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Calvin Klein and the New Calvinism Calvinists – both the followers of the severe religion and of Calvin Klein’s legacy of spare chic – are expected to look for the plain and simple. Since Francisco Costa took the helm as Women’s Creative Director in 2003, he has played handsomely with minimalism – always streamlined, sometimes sculpted, and occasionally tortured. But more recently the designer has used surface interest in order to add spirit to a clean silhouette.  Picture credit: Indigital For Autumn/Winter 2015 it all came together as Costa, inspired by artists and fashion styles of the late 1960s and early 1970s, sent out a powerful and upbeat collection. “Maxi and mini – two silhouettes, velvet, and a lot of leather,” the designer in summary of his collection.  Picture credit: Indigital There was one mighty difference between familiar silhouettes from an earlier era and Costa’s complex treatments of the materials that formed the streamlined shapes, which even included a couple of onesies. Tiny patchworks of shearling or needle-punched calf skin gave artistic, but not actual, weight to tailored outerwear – either peacoats or maxi length – while stretch boots or sheath dresses in leather offered a contrasting smoothness. A mini dress with silvered eyelet rings seemed too obviously Sixties in style, for Calvin Klein himself was, after all, a beacon of fashion modernity, but these literal re-makes were rare.  Picture credit: Indigital The clothes that sung out were long, but light – the most striking an ankle-length black coat created from a lattice of haircalf. Even Sienna Miller, showing off her bare legs in an Arctic New York climate, looked convinced that long and light could be a stylish option. (责任编辑：admin) |