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Suzy Menkes:纽约时装周第六天(7)

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    Rodarte: A ConfidentFlight
    "We started with the idea of birds leaving the city," said LauraMulleavy, explaining the origins of the Autumn 2015 Rodarte show,which was as fresh as it was compelling.
    Finally, after a decade ofhovering between a streetwise vulgarity and romance with a darkedge, it seemed as though the Rodarte sisters, Kate and Laura, hadhit the perfect fashion note.
    The difference was that for thedaywear, the seedy side - suggestive of dubious downtown LA - wassmartened up with tailored jackets or even a roomy coat, worn withshort skirts, stretch leather pants and skinny hose, often withlace running down the side.
    
    These women in their tweedblazers, softened with lacy tops, looked less fragile than thetypical Mulleavy image, and more in charge of theirdestinies.
    But, suddenly, these powerfulwomen, walking through a set of fallen branches, were descendedupon by a flock of colourful figures. The invaders wore dresses ofintense colour with layers of crystal stripes and flowers thatblazed like neon lighting.
    
    Then, like departing birds, theflock of glitter flew away, replaced by more ethereal drapeddresses, decorated with wispy feathers. Backstage, the duo could nolonger remember how the original storyline had firstunfolded.
    
    The lyrical beauty of the eveningwear had no trace of theblood-and-gore stories from which the siblings had started theircollections. Nor was there anything approaching the StarWars references we have seen previously.
    There may have been a faint undercurrent of discomfort,but every single outfit was wearable - the first truly desirablefashion collection that Rodarte has offered. Which is probably whythis season it was the hard-nosed American buyers, not press andfriends, who were the first ones backstage with heartfeltcongratulations.
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