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Suzy Menkes:纽约时装周第六天(6)

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    Oscar de la Renta:Copping- Respect
    As the models wearing smart striped suits, high-waisted skirtsand tailored coats stepped out in elegant heels, there was a sighof relief from the line-up of loyal clients at the Oscar de laRenta show.
    Socialites, philanthropists,and famous TV personality Barbara Walters had all come to seethe new man at the helm after the passing of de la Renta lastyear. And Peter Copping, the British-born designer lured fromNina Ricci in Paris to take control, got a resoundingthumbs-up.
    
    "Very respectful," said Mercedes Bass, jigglingher emerald earrings as she picked out her winners, while NancyKissinger had already marked potential purchases.
    Backstage, Copping said, "Ididn't want it to be an homage, but Oscar felt verypresent.
    All fashion 'takeovers' tend tostart by not rocking the boat. Alexander McQueen's madcapinventions for Givenchy is the only time I can think of adeliberate upheaval.
    
    So the new designer made chicdaywear that would not frighten away existing clients: a jacketwith mink cuffs or a check tweed coat. Missing was the floralprettiness shown by Copping at his Paris house, but the pieces weregraceful and seemed beautifully made.
    Since Taylor Swift and modelKarly Kloss were also front row, the designer made a more youthfuloffering in a short ballerina dress. Although grand gowns swept thecatwalk as the show progressed.
    
    This outing did seem like anhomage, with Copping "not putting himself first" as Mercedes Basssaid. Yet, recently, Oscar himself had introduced some striking andmodernising elements, such as dayglow colours and flower jewelleryas intense decoration.
    However noble it is to follow a great American fashionhero, the new designer must start to fill up himself thosehigh-heeled shoes.
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