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#SuzyNYFW: Ralph Lauren’s Jamaican Idyll

http://www.newdu.com 2018-02-28 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 参加讨论

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    David Lauren, Lauren Bush Lauren and Hilary Swank at the Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-to-Wear show in New York
    @SuzyMenkesVogue
    A peaceful holiday home with palm fronds swaying in a gentle breeze… No wonder that Ralph Lauren was inspired by his Jamaican vacation idyll, compared to the gales and rain of New York’s chilly winter.
    
    Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-to-Wear
    InDigital.TV
    
    Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2018 Read-to-Wear
    InDigital.TV
    But is it really his embrace of the ‘See Now Buy Now’ selling system that encouraged the designer to take a slow boat to the Caribbean?  That might be better described as an ocean liner, its lean prow printed on a summer dress, the pattern even wrapped from front to back.
    
    Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-to-Wear
    InDigital.TV
    Sounds cheesy? In fact, these chapters in the show helped the designer to bring multiple races and faces to his runway in a simple way.
    
    Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-to-Wear
    InDigital.TV
    “I thought it was colourful – the right mood, the right sense of happiness,” the designer said backstage, after the familiar long walk down the runway, embracing friends and family, including front row stars Hilary Swank and Katie Holmes.
    
    Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-to-Wear
    InDigital.TV
    
    Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-to-Wear
    InDigital.TV
    The colours that stood out were naval: blue and white, red and bright yellow, all looking fresh and sporty but not high-end, given the status of the brand.
    
    Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-to-Wear
    InDigital.TV
    The opening summer dresses, flowered or with the effect of bleached denim, had a boardwalk freshness from the last century. The fact that they were often worn by women of colour enhanced the sense of a company trying to move outside its comfort zone. But that seemed like a historic view of Caribbean bliss.
    
    Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-to-Wear
    InDigital.TV
    The subject of the historic ocean liner and all its social mores is currently on show at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum (after a display in the US). It is always intriguing when art and commerce are a neat fit.
    
    Ralph Lauren has embraced the 'See Now Buy Now' phenomenon. At Saks Fifth Avenue, Ralph Lauren's Spring/Summer 2018 collection was available just a few hours after its debut on the catwalk: Navy crochet dress, $2,390; strapless sundress, $2,290
    @SuzyMenkesVogue
    And providing instant fashion gratification does seem to work for some brands. I followed Ralph Lauren’s collection to Sak’s Fifth Avenue where, three hours after the morning’s client show, customers were buying outfits straight from the runway at a cocktail presentation. The ocean liners did not seem to be centre-stage on the store rails. But maybe they had already sailed away to a client in vacation mood.
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