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敬请期待中文版  Dell'Acqua'sfloral theme opened up his creative side for Rochas Picture credit: Indigital With so many heritage brands fighting for revival, it isencouraging to see that it can be achieved - usually after a coupleof struggling years. I am looking at Rochas and Vionnet, who haveboth finally made it. And also the niche brand Aganovich, whichowes a lot to fashion's past - but achieves it in a contemporaryway. Rochas: lightening up The carpet with flat pink flowers served as more than a runwayat Rochas. It was a message from designer Alessandro Dell'Acquathat lightness and brightness is all.  Picture credit: Indigital A green velvet dress, a floral shirt with mustard yellowtrousers and then those colours developed like flowers, openinginto lime and ginger, which brought out the artistic side of thedesigner - and lightened up the clothes.  Picture credit: Indigital  Picture credit: Indigital Day clothes had a palpable presence this season, rather than asan apology before the evening parade started. A pine-green top witha vertical ripple of silk paired with golden yellow trousers madefancy, if elegant, daywear. And tailored or fur coats welcomed thewinter in. This is a season where many designers are makingun-seasonal collections.  Picture credit: Indigital It seemed a mistake to take the effective bright socks andplatform shoes from day into the night, but perhaps it was a way ofsaying that Dell'Acqua has given up grand gowns for softer dresseswafting around the calf. The fact that the windows were uncoveredto let in rain-washed daylight added to a sense that Dell'Acqua hasembraced a more open world.  Picture credit: Indigital Vionnet: shaped to be draped It is always a pleasure when a noble name succeeds in resonatingonce more in the modern world. It usually takes a while - andso it has been with Vionnet. But after experimenting with makingclassics sporty and, alternatively, following a vague Graeco-Roman path, the clothes for winter 2016 looked just asthey should: low-profile glamour. A background of a Paris church instilled a sense of calm, while onstage it seemed as though a battle had had been won in themodernisation of classic shapes and drapes. The starting point wasa one-shouldered dress in burnt orange and that first look, closeto the body, but not drowning it in drapes, set the tone.  Picture credit: Indigital Another way of treating the fluidity of fabric was acrossover drape, creating a gentle V-line at thefront.  Picture credit: Indigital A drape-and-shape technique has to look easy and even when abrightly coloured ribbon was threaded through, the effect wasmeant-to-be, rather than alien. I credit HusseinChalayan, as Vionnet's team leader, with producing thisapparently simple (but in fact exceptional) effect and I would berelieved to see this sophisticated look take over from thestrapless or deep-V bodices on the red carpet.  Picture credit: Indigital The daywear at this house is another story. I accept thatowner Goga Ashkenazy has to think about offering a full wardrobe tocustomers in the elegant Vionnet stores. But how does a velvetcollar jacket with its eight buttons set at an angle speak out forthis brand?  Picture credit: Indigital This is an era when many women are opting for dressesrather than tailoring for work - witness the resurgence of DianeVon Fürstenberg's original 1970s inventions. Light draping fordaytime is surely the way to go to make Vionnet relevant beforenightfall. Aganovich: Edwardiana in the new millennium Three is something both charming and precise about Aganovich andthe way the design duo of Nana Aganovich and BrookeTaylor seem contained in their own fashion universe - whilebeing prepared to let the influences of the wider world seep inwhen it suits them.  Picture credit: Indigital To describe a man and a woman pencilled elegantly in black andwhite might sound banal. But it is the depth of the work - theruffle pouring down the front of a white blouse or - when the modelturned round - the long white shoe cord threaded through blackleather trousers. The effect was to make the familiar male/femalething seem romantic. And the same threads - white on black sneakers- brought the sober, almost Victorian dress, into the modernworld.  Picture credit: Indigital  Picture credit: Indigital Since these designers work only in black and white, texture istheir fashion lifeline. It gives a shine to a silken sleeve fallingin ruffles by a dress gleaming darkly like coal.  Picture credit: Indigital You can't help feeling that this duo has one foot in anEdwardian past. Their skill is to make you want to put on yourtrainers and run there. (责任编辑：admin) |