|
敬请期待中文版 DEMNA GVASALIA stood backstage in the Paris Presbyterianchurch where Vetements, the radical fashion collective, had stageda show.  Picture credit: Indigital "May the bridges I burn light the way" were the words inscarlet on his black T-shirt - a more poetic message than thosethat came down the pews serving as runways. "Are we having funyet?" enquired the blue top of a dour-faced model/friend, hisraincoat hanging from a hoop on his belt.  Picture credit: Indigital Other T-shirt announcements were angry words spelled outin expletives. The way the models walked, bearing down fast on theaudience, looked dead angry too. Most of the clothes were oversized, one side of a shirt hangingout or the jackets suspended on hidden hangers. (I am sure I haveseen that before at Margiela, with whom Demna has worked.)  Picture credit: Indigital But we have not seen "anti-fashion" in a while - not sincegrunge dug its messy feet into urban streets and said "no" to theopulent Eighties. All that happened two decades ago when Demna - whowill do the very grown-up thing of showing his collection forBalenciaga on Sunday - was just 14 years old.  Picture credit: Indigital Backstage we talked about both events. "The choice of a church was because it was a dark season andthere was a lot of emotion going on in the team," Demna said. "Wewere in a dark mode - a church was the perfect atmosphere." But what about the clothes that seem rather less oversize thansix months ago, and feel more angry and aggressive. All theslogans, many of them unprintable were found in social media. Theclothing attitude was gender neutral - the modern way to dress. ButI missed the more simple female clothes, which remained only as aflash of dresses in flower-printed apron cloth.  Picture credit: Indigital "We have changed a lot - there is more play with proportions,"said the designer. "But there is continuity - we are keeping thingsas before." I consider anti-fashion as part of fashion. And I was onlysurprised not to feel more emotional moments, like the openingoutfit of very short dress, weighed down by a big upper bodice, butenlivened with a bouquet of daffodils.  Picture credit: Indigital It does not surprise me that 20-somethings without jobs in thisunfair world divided between the super-rich and the rest shouldfling a necktie around the spine of a jacket, put on scarlethoodies to protect themselves and step belligerently forward. Fashion is a bellwether, more often ahead of history's curve.Come the revolution, at least we will know where todress. (责任编辑：admin) |