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#SuzyMFW Stella Jean: Portrait Versus Mask

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    敬请期待中文版
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    THE EMOTION STARTED before the show, as gospel singerslined up at one end of the ancient Milanese building,their soulful voices reproducing the original 1990s version ofCoolio's "Gangsta's Paradise".
    That alone - plus the cultural mix of Stella Jean's background,so rare in Italian fashion - would have been enough to excite theaudience. But the designer has finally reached the point where shecan use her background and knowledge to create a mash-up that looksmodern.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Let's start with the shoes. Only a few seasons ago hermodels were tottering on inappropriate footwear. Now, flats - oftenwith an African feel - predominated on the catwalk. They weresometimes shown inside sheer plastic, which I assumed tobe an African tradition, not a clairvoyant vision of Milan'ssoaking rain.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Stella Jean was brought up withEuropean visual clichés, so her skill was to takebold African patterns and work their rhythm into Western looks.Bold coats, well-cut jackets, and skirts were from a coloniallady's fashion closet. But these tailored garments looked asspiffy with fragments of African patterns as did the knits.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    The designer's complex show notes, mentioning a successfulcollaboration with London-based jeweller Elisabetta Cipriani,focused mainly on the diversity that came together in her fashionmind. It was an idea about the old colonial and sub-Saharancontinent merging - including Africa's influence on artistsfrom Modigliani to Picasso.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Stella Jean's success story is in melding the tribal andwearable. And her choir added an extra layer of emotion.
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