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Suzy Menkes:巴黎时装周第九天(5)

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    Louis Vuitton: Ghesquière Has Landed!
    The transparent space-age igloo built for the show was almost as impressive as the fantastical Frank Gehry-designed Louis Vuitton Foundation beside it. But the real news from Vuitton is that Nicolas Ghesquière has landed!  In his third season, the designer has finally struck upon that dream combination of invention and heritage. His clothes had the futuristic edge that has always been his strength. But at the same time there was a pure and perfect modernity.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    This show came at the end of international collections for Winter 2015, where endless fashion flashbacks to the hippie, trippy Seventies have seemed backward looking. There was none of that here. Even the new LV bags - those metal boxes used today for digital-equipment, and historically as car travel trunks  - were examples of the designer's witty and smart approach.  "It's the exploratory side of Louis Vuitton - I am building new classics again and again, trying to refine them - and mixing them with elements that are reflective of the Louis Vuitton identity," the designer said backstage.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    He also talked about his imagined woman traveller, adding craft pieces found on her journeys to the stricter styles and streamlined silhouettes. I saw Chinese actress Fan Bingbing looking at an Asian jellyfish-patterned dress, while Catherine Deneuve had her eye on a sleek tailored trouser suit, ready for dressing up with some imaginative accessories.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    The metallic surface of the box-bag moved as if by digital hotspot to the clothes, where sculpted knits were given a silvered surface. Other ways of playing with texture included a simple white outfit with a fur circle casually looped round the wrist. Another fur idea was a yellow and green pattern giving an eerie effect to the tactile surface. Knits with a jellyfish-like edging added another element of movement.  But often clothes were simple tops and skirts - just with intricate textures.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    The Louis Vuitton collection resounded with the three Ts. Today, tomorrow, and texture. That is what made it seem cool and contemporary. It also proved that Ghesquière, who had seemed so timid and 'normcore' with his first two runway outings, has found the right place in his kind of cyberspace.
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