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Suzy Menkes:伦敦时装周第三天(10)

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    Paul Smith: A Checkered Present
    A straight coat, its firm lines softened by faded checks – Paul Smith took his collection into that almost-forgotten British fashion territory: tailoring.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Softened by the washed Madras checks, thickened by the use of shearling, this was a fine and well-thought-out collection from London’s great menswear designer, who has finally given his women’s line street cred – meaning that it looks desirable and practical.
    This collection reminded me of what has been lost in fashion since the focus swung to digital experiments and every other outfit is built on pattern and print.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Paul Smith’s approach is much more pragmatic, and that is meant as a compliment. These are clothes that will last long in a woman’s wardrobe. For a start, there were trousers, often forgotten among a plethora of skirts. There might have been more diversity in length, but the ankle-high pants looked slick.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    But it was the faded checks which caught the moment – geometric, with a soft haze to make them wardrobe-friendly rather than a loud fashion statement.
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