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Suzy Menkes:巴黎时装周第三天(4)

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    Rochas: Venus in Mud and Buttercup  
    Is it enough to make curvy femininity modern, by serving it up in a workaday brown or covering the fabric with abstract birds? 
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    At Rochas, a classic French house, Alessandro dell’Acqua is making the style classic Italian. This is hardly surprising considering the designer’s country of origin. And it suited Rochas, which had anyway lost its once Parisian identity. 
    A focus on the bosom, with the bust formed like twin shells as if for Venus rising from the ocean, was one way of reflecting on womanhood. So was putting transparent lace under a fur jacket, and the fact that belts with everything emphasised the waist. 
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    The key print was of a flock of flying birds as an abstract pattern, inspired by an early work of Rochas. The show was perfectly nice and brightened up when baked mud brown was replaced by buttercup yellow. 
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Dell’Acqua has lightened up since his heavy-handed start, and this collection was appealing. But that is still not quite enough for brand identity in these competitive times. 
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